Ghost Towns: Escaping Crowds at US National Parks

August is the most crowded time to visit most western US national parks, which overflow with families taking last-ditch summer vacations before school starts. How do you escape the crush? Scattered around many iconic western national parks (or sometimes even right inside the park’s boundaries) are deserted ghost towns to explore. Left over from the pioneer mining rushes of the 19th and 20th centuries, these abandoned settlements with their dusty streets and propped-up landmarks have Old West atmosphere in spades, which kids will love. 


Although you’ll need a GPS and possibly a high-clearance 4WD vehicle to visit the remotest ghost towns, many are surprisingly easy to get to (paved roads! signposts!) from national parks that regularly top family summer vacation itineraries, including Yosemite, Zion and the Grand Canyon. Check out my top 5 picks for Old West ghost town hunting over on Lonely Planet

What are your favorite Western ghost towns? Let me know by leaving a comment below. Thanks!


Related links:


The Best Hike on Maui Is…

Local alternative weekly newspaper Maui Time has declared that the best hike on the island is the bamboo forest trail at Kipahulu. Although I’m usually a hard-nosed media critic, I agree. 

When I first visited Maui in 1995, this is the trail that captured my imagination and memory: the musical rustling of bamboo plants sounding like an orchestra of xylophones whenever the wind blew; spray from a wildly rushing stream as I crossed the twin footbridges; and postcard-worthy Waimoku Falls tumbling into a jungly pool at the trail’s end. 

Officially called the Pipiwai Trail, this day hike is no secret. You’ll meet dozens of other hikers, all swatting away the mosquitoes (bring insect repellent!) and gulping from their bottles of water in the hot, humid and sweaty conditions. Moderately strenuous, the Pipiwai Trail measures two miles each way, winding uphill over tree roots and crossing bridges and a rocky stream before finally arriving at powerful cliffside Waimoku Falls.

This is one of Maui’s most popular hikes, but it’s also one of the most dangerous. Why? Because people ignore the national park’s warning signs and hike off-trail to reach off-limits waterfalls, then slip, fall down cliffs or drown in flash floods. The good news is that you can easily avoid these dangers simply by sticking to the trail, not swimming in any waterfalls (falling rocks could conk you on the head) and not crossing any streams when flash floods are possible. Stop by the Kipahulu ranger station for advice and to check today’s weather report before starting your hike.

The Pipiwai Trail starts near the parking lot for the coastal Kipahulu section of Haleakala National Park, 10 twisting and narrow miles beyond Hana near mile marker 42 on the Hana Highway. Entry to the national park (including its volcanic summit area, which has even more amazing hikes) currently costs $10 per vehicle for three days. 

Find out all about the many hiking and backpacking trails in Haleakala National Park in my guidebook Top Trails Maui, available in paperback and also digitally as an Amazon Kindle ebook.

Got another favorite trail on Maui? Let us know by leaving a comment below. Mahalo!

Related links:
Hawaii’s National Parks Go Social: News for Hikers
Hidden Hiking Trails in West Maui
Our National Parks: So Wild That You Should Sue?

Photo credits: Haleakala National Park (Michael Connolly Jr.)

Five Great Hikes into Hawaii’s History on Oahu

Manoa Valley above Honolulu on the island of Oahu, Hawaii

Want to dig deeper into Hawaiian culture on your next island vacation? There’s no better place to start on than Oahu, home to ancient temples and battlegrounds, WWII historical sites, and the wild scenery of the Windward Coast and North Shore.


Over on LonelyPlanet.com, check out my list of five of the most worthwhile day hikes across Oahu, from the easy ascent of Diamond Head near Waikiki to the Maunawaili Trail that snakes below the jagged pali (cliffs). Visit WWII pillboxes or a Hawaiian temple of traditional medicine and healing, all within a surprisingly short drive of Honolulu and Waikiki.


Here’s a bonus for readers like you! I didn’t have room in my Lonely Planet article to point out the best locals’ places to refuel after your hike:


1. Diamond Head - Back in Waikiki, drop by Waiola Shave Ice for icy treats or 1950s-era Leonard’s Bakery for malasadas (Portuguese-style doughnuts).


2. Maunawili Trail Network - Drive from any trailhead to Sweet Home Waimanalo cafe, pouring veggie smoothies and mint lemonade.


3. Lanikai Pillboxes - Line up at Lanikai Juice for tropical fruit smoothies, often made with produce from organic farms, and heaping fruit bowls.


4. Kaena Point State Park - Backtrack to Haleiwa for  Matsumoto Shave Ice from a roadside shack.


5. Keaiwa Heiau State Recreation Area - Gorge on an island plate lunch or poke rice bowl with spicy eggplant fries at chef Elmer’s Poke Stop.


Got another favorite hike on Oahu? Let us know about it by leaving a comment below. Mahalo!


Related links:
Big Island Trekking: From Coast to Volcanic Peaks
Hawaii: Go Green, Live Local & Save Money
Hidden Hiking Trails in West Maui

Photo credit: Sara Benson & Michael Connolly Jr.

Hiking Yosemite’s Half Dome [Photo Essay]

Often reading about a hiking trail doesn’t give you enough information. Honestly, how difficult is it to hike up Half Dome inside Yosemite National Park? Take a look at our trek and decide for yourself.
View of Half Dome from Clouds Rest peak in Yosemite National Park

Heading up to Clouds Rest from the Sunrise Lakes Trailhead off Tioga Road, you get panoramic views of this glacially polished granite dome. Its rear profile resembles a hawk perched above Yosemite Valley.
Lightning strikes, falling from the cables and other risks



Warning signs at the base of Half Dome are ignored by hikers too intent on making it to the summit despite inclement weather. Fatalities from lightning strikes or slipping off the cables have happened.

Half Dome cables, which are put up seasonally each summer

To safely ascend the cables bolted into the rock, leather gloves and climbing shoes or hiking boots with good traction help. So does upper body strength, as you’ll be pulling yourself up to the top of the cables, not pushing off the rock with your legs.


Walking on the top of Half Dome on a summer weekday before 10 a.m.

Is it worth the effort of getting up early enough to beat the crowds to the top? Yes. Fewer people on the cables before 9 a.m. makes it quicker, easier and safer for you to ascend and descend the cables. You’ll need to get a hiking permit in advance.


View of Yosemite Valley from the summit of Half Dome

At the summit, stop to catch your breath, let your cramped arm muscles loosen, and gaze down at evergreen trees and meadows beside the Merced River, which meanders through Yosemite Valley

Safely back down the cables, thanks to climbing rope and clips

We finished our 20-mile overnight hike in Yosemite Valley, descending from Half Dome and over the wooden bridge above Nevada Fall. Take the John Muir Trail if you’re already knock-kneed, or drop down the steeper Mist Trail beside Vernal Fall.


Have you climbed Yosemite’s Half Dome? Was it worth it? Would you do it again? Have any other tips for novices? Leave us a comment below!


Related links:
Catching the Firefall in Yosemite Valley
Winter’s Last Lucky Call in Yosemite
Yosemite’s Half Dome Through the Back Door


Photos: Yosemite National Park (Michael Connolly Jr. & Sara Benson)

Maui’s Cowboy Country: Annual July 4th Parade & Rodeo This Weekend in Makawao

Hawaii’s paniolo (cowboy) culture stretches back to the turn of the 19th century, when cows and horses were first brought here by foreign sea captains as gifts for Kamehameha the Great. Spanish vaqueros came to the islands in the 1820s to teach Hawaiians how to herd cattle and saddle up on horseback. Less than a century later, a Big Island ranch hand named Ikua Purdy won the world roping championships in Cheyenne Wyoming, setting (then) a new world record of 56 seconds.



That all goes to show how quickly and strongly cowboy culture took root in Hawaii. Starting on the Parker Ranch in Waimea (Kamuela) on the Big Island, it spread to other islands, including Maui on the slopes of Haleakala volcano. Every year around the July 4th holiday, the small upcountry town of Makawao puts on a parade with lei-draped riders on horseback and holds competitive roping and stock events at the Oskie Rice Rodeo Arena off Olinda Rd. This year the parade starts at 9 a.m. on Saturday, July 7, 2012. Rodeo qualifying rounds kick off at 9 a.m. on Thursday, July 6, and Friday, July 7, with the finals starting at 1 p.m. on Saturday, July 8, and Sunday, July 9. Check the full events schedule published by Maui Magazine.



Want a sneak peek, or maybe you can’t be there in person? Watch this YouTube slideshow video of the 2011 Makawao Rodeo, showing both women and men competing for top prizes. Year-round, you can visit Makawao in Maui’s upcountry on your own. Book ahead for a guided horseback ride with Pony Express Tours, which leads day trips across the slopes of Haleakala volcano, both on a private ranch and inside Haleakala National Park‘s summit area on the Sliding Sands Trail, which is also open to day hikers and overnight backpackers. 


Related links:
Haleakala’s Summit Wilderness: High Winds & Other Fascinatingly Dangerous Weather
NPR Interview: Hiking and Ecotourism in Hawaii
Welcome to Top Trails: Hiking on Maui


Photo credits: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jenniferboyer / CC BY 2.0
http://www.flickr.com/photos/daveynin / CC BY 2.0

5 Big Las Vegas Mistakes You Can Avoid

In 2012, Las Vegas has become one of top two most-searched travel destinations online, behind only Disney. What’s everyone trying to find out? Why is this city so hard for first-time visitors and even repeaters to figure out? I’m going to save you a lot of Googling, and even more wasted time and money, and tell you about the five biggest lessons I’ve learned from a decade of hanging out in Sin City.

1. Let your taxi drive ‘long-haul’ you through the tunnel. Once you arrive at McCarran Airport and wait in the annoyingly long taxi queue, you’re probably not going to pay attention to how your taxi driver gets you to your hotel. But be sure to stay awake and conscious long enough to tell your driver not to take the I-15 connector tunnel if you’re staying on or near the Strip. It’ll add significantly to your taxi fare and surface streets are faster. (Tip: If you don’t want to wait in the airport taxi line, tweet @Hacking Vegas in advance for a stealth pick-up at McCarran.)


2. Not take advantage of valet parking. I’m a diehard self-parker, even on the streets of Los Angeles, where valet parking is treated like a civic duty. But in Las Vegas, valet parking is free at almost every casino hotel and shopping mall. All you need to do is tip when the valet hands you back the car keys (a few bucks is fine, unless they leave your Maserati out front, in which case give ‘em a $20). That tip costs less than what you’re going to drop in the slot machines, and it saves you having to walk for 15 minutes to and from the self-parking garage. For quick, easy in/out valet parking on the Strip and downtown, I like the Tropicana, Miracle Mile Shops at Planet Hollywood, Bally’s, Main Street Station, the Golden Gate and the Golden Nugget‘s Rush Tower. 

3. Fail to find a deal on your hotel room. There are so many ways to save money on where you stay, whether that’s on the Strip, downtown or anywhere else. Most casino hotels announce their deals on Facebook, Google+ and Twitter (the Tropicana is especially savvy with social media offers) and also make promo packages available on their websites. But the best deals are usually reserved for visitors who sign up in advance for email lists (MGM Grand, Bellagio, Wynn & Encore) or register with the casino hotel websites (ex. TI (Treasure Island), Venetian & Palazzo). To get an idea of baseline hotel rates for your travel dates, start your search at Travelworm and compare air/hotel packages on travel booking sites like Expedia. But don’t stop your comparison shopping there. Often booking your flights independently and your hotel room directly with the casino nets the biggest savings.


4. Buy full-price tickets for a bad show. When you’re on the Strip, you may feel like you have to see a show, as if leaving Vegas without having done so means you’ll have missed out. Not true! If you’re not a fan of stage shows to begin with, nothing in Vegas is likely to change your mind. If you do want to see a show and you don’t have your heart set on Celine Dion or Garth Brooks, head over to the nearest branch of Tix 4 Tonight and get a same-day, steeply discounted ticket for anything that sounds like fun, whether that’s Absinthe comedy burlesque, Penn & Teller‘s magic show or Legends in Concert celebrity impersonators. Even if you don’t love the show, at least you won’t have spent too much money on it. Bonus tip: If you do want to see Cirque du Soleil, line up before the Tix 4 Tonight booth opens for the day or sign up online for the Cirque Club to buy discount tickets in advance. Also check for promo ticket deals on the Cirque website and the websites of the casinos hotels where the shows are playing.

5. Pay too much or too little for dinner. Are you excited by the idea of a $10 steak or buffet? Know that you get what you pay for in Vegas, which means bad food for cheapskates (Ellis Island off-Strip is a shining exception to this rule). If you’re going to pay for a buffet, pick one of the best, like The Buffet at Wynn, Wicked Spoon at Cosmopolitan or Studio B at the M Resort south of the Strip. It’s also worth paying more for top-tier steakhouses, like SW Steakhouse at Wynn, Cut at the Palazzo or N9NE at the Palms. Under-the-radar steakhouse deals include Envy near the city’s convention center, Vic & Anthony’s at the Golden Nugget, Flame at the El Cortez or the 1950s Golden Steer, where the Rat Pack used to hang out, just west of the Strip. And just because you’re splurging, doesn’t mean you can’t also save yourself money and time. Buy discount dining certificates from Restaurants.com and make free reservations for in-demand restaurants with OpenTable


Looking for more expert insider Vegas travel info? Download our Viva Las Vegas, Baby! mobile app or Amazon Kindle ebook. Got your own tips for avoiding tourist traps in Las Vegas? Let us know by leaving a comment below. Thanks!


Related links: 
Viva Las Vegas, Baby! mobile app (iTunes / Android)
Viva Las Vegas, Baby! Amazon Kindle ebook
Stacking Up the Strip’s Best Burgers


Photo credits: Michael Connolly, Jr. & Sara Benson 

Good News, Bad News for Endangered California Condors in 2012

Condor mother and chick in cave nest.

Living near the Big Sur coast and Pinnacles National Monument, I’m lucky enough to have glimpsed California condors soaring in the wild while I hike along windy beaches and rocky cliffs. Given that there were only about two dozen birds left in the world in the 1980s, their species recovery to over 400 birds counted earlier this year in 2012 is nothing short of amazing. Captive breeding programs and wild bird banding and tracking studies have kept these ancient ones from flying off into extinction.


Now here’s the bad news. Just like in the late 20th-century, lead poisoning is again striking down these majestic hunters, whose future survival is still fragile. The culprit is lead ammunition being used by hunters, whose bullets become embedded in abandoned carcasses that then become food for condors. As discussed in a recent Los Angeles Times  article, unless a broader legal ban is instituted on lead ammunition within condor habitats, birds will likely continue to be poisoned, sickened and die.


You can learn more about these scrappy scavengers on the Big Sur coast at Andrew Molera State Park, where the Ventana Wildlife Society staffs the Discovery Center, now open Saturdays and Sundays from Memorial Day through Labor Day. Once the weather cools down, head inland to Pinnacles National Monument, a condor feeding and release site that hosts special birdwatching events, usually in fall, winter and spring (summer is just too hot!).


Can’t travel to California? You can follow the condors’ dramatic story online with Audubon California and the Ventana Wildlife Society blog and Facebook page, where condor sighting photos are posted. Find out how these birds narrowly came back from the brink of extinction in John Moir‘s moving and well-researched book, Return of the Condor.


Related links:
10 Steps to a Perfect Day in Big Sur
Marine Life Cameos at Monterey Bay Aquarium
Itty-Bitty Book Review: Shadow of the Bear


Photo credit:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/usfws_pacificsw/ / CC BY 2.0

Big Island Trekking: From Coast to Volcanic Peaks

Itching for a longer overnight or multi-day hike to test your skills? If you’ve already done every trail in Maui’s Haleakala National Park, including switchbacking down the back side of the volcano to Kaupo and the lunar-like Skyline Trail to Polipoli Spring State Recreation Area, then fly over to the neighboring Big Island.


Many hikers know about the Big Island’s very tough summit trails up Mauna Kea, Hawaii’s highest peak and Mauna Loa, a more massive mountain inside Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. But less well-known is the ambitious 175-mile Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail, which traces the shoreline of the Big Island from Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, around South Point and all the way up the Kona coast into Kohala to northern Upolu Point. 

Along its planned (but not yet fully implemented) route, this national historic trail passes historical heiau (Hawaiian temples), ancient Hawaiian village sites and a place of refuge, as well as beaches both lonely and crammed with sunseekers. Parts of the trail are utterly remote, while others border some of the busiest towns on the Big Island.


Be aware that Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail is not entirely open to the public yet, although some sections under National Park Service (NPS) and state land management are, including more than 15 miles along South Kohala’s sun-baked lava coast between Kawaihae and sandy Anaehoomalu Bay.


Have you hiked any of the Big Island’s overnight trekking routes or volcanic peaks? Which trails do you think are the best? How do they compare with Maui’s Haleakala volcano or Kauai’s Kalalau Trail along the Na Pali Coast? Let us know about your hiking experiences by leaving a comment! 


Related links:
Haleakala’s Summit Wilderness: High Winds & Other Fascinatingly Dangerous Weather
Go Green, Local Style: West Hawaii (Big Island)
Go Green, Local Style: East Hawaii (Big Island)
National Parks of the Pacific Islands: Walk This Way 


Photo credits: Puuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park (Michael S. Connolly, Jr.), Kohala Historical Sites State Monument (Michael S. Connolly, Jr.)

Insta-guide to Kings Canyon National Park

Planning your first trip to Kings Canyon National Park? Or maybe you just want to find how to make the most of your time at the Sierra Nevada’s least-visited park? Here’s what you need to know, but what the official NPS website won’t tell you (or will make you dig through dozens of pages to find!):


Why go? Kings Canyon gives you classic Sierra Nevada mountain scenery without the crowds of Yosemite Valley, plus giant sequoia trees without the traffic jams of Sequoia National Park next door. You can drive down into the canyon itself, one of North America’s deepest, and find swimming holes alongside the frothy Kings River, go wildlife watching or lace up your hiking boots and trek to waterfall cascades and alpine lakes.

Access? There’s only one way into Kings Canyon National Park and that’s via Hwy 180 to the park’s Big Stump Entrance outside Grant Grove Village, starting either from Fresno in California’s Central Valley or Sequoia National Park via the Generals Hwy. Kings Canyon National Park’s two main areas, Grant Grove and Cedar Grove, are geographically separated by the Sequoia National Forest and its Giant Sequoia National Monument. But they’re connected by the twisting, narrow Kings Canyon Scenic Byway (Hwy 180), which edges along the face of dizzyingly sheer cliffs for 30 miles down the canyon. This byway is open to Hume Lake year-round, but closed to Cedar Grove by snowfall, usually from mid-November through mid-April.

When to beat the crowds? Like elsewhere in the Sierra Nevada, summer is peak tourist season, especially from July 4th through the Labor Day holiday weekend in early September. Right now, the slower period between Memorial Day and late June is an optimal time to visit, as is September immediately after Labor Day. In winter you can still visit the Grant Grove area of the park to go snowshoeing among the giant sequoia trees.

Park highlights honestly worth making time for? Even if you have to wait for a parking space, don’t miss seeing Grant Grove, where many of the park’s biggest trees live. The nature trail is kid-friendly, and you can walk right through the Fallen Monarch, a giant sequoia stump that once served as a hotel, a bar and a horse stable for US Cavalry who were the Sierra Nevada’s first park rangers. Near the end of Hwy 180 past Cedar Grove Village, pull over at Zumwalt Meadow. Across a scenic bridge, a short nature trail loops around the grassy meadows where mule deer graze, black bears forage with their cubs and bird song echoes off canyon walls.

Best day hikes? In addition to the nature trails at Grant Grove and Zumwalt Meadow, the most popular day hike is from Road’s End in Cedar Grove to Mist Falls, over 8 miles round-trip but worth every step for the canyon views and waterfall cascading over granite. Extend this hike another 2 miles each way to reach Paradise Valley. A day hike most visitors miss is the peaceful 8-mile Hotel Creek-Lewis Creek Loop, which tops out near the Cedar Grove Overlook and is especially great for birders in the early morning.


Best swimming holes? Cedar Grove has ‘em all, but most aren’t safe enough to swim in until the Kings River flow slows down later in summer. When in doubt, ask a ranger first before taking a dip. At Road’s End, hit the river beach near Muir Rock, where conservationist John Muir once gave inspiring outdoor talks and kids today jump screaming into the river. Or follow the path west from Road’s End along the riverside, curving left and south to find the Red Bridge, usually a less crowded swimming hole. Off Hwy 180, Hume Lake is another popular place to swim and paddle around in summer, with USFS recreational areas and beaches by a Christian camp that rents boats.

Which campgrounds may have last-minute availability? Unlike in Yosemite, Kings Canyon National Park campgrounds are first-come, first-served. Campgrounds in Grant Grove usually fill up before those in Cedar Grove, although on summer holiday weekends, it’s not unheard of for all campsites in the park to be taken by early Friday afternoon. Check at the Grant Grove visitor center about campground availability in Cedar Grove before making the drive all the way down canyon.


Affordable alternative base camp outside the park? You can find primitive campgrounds and free dispersed camping in the Sequoia National Forest just outside the park, including near Hume Lake and along Big Meadows Rd off the Generals Hwy between Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks. 


Any hazards? Drowning is the number-one cause of fatalities in the park, usually in rivers and streams that are flowing too fast and too furiously to be safe to swim in, as well as from fatal slips off boulders by the top of waterfalls. Kings Canyon is also black bear country: all food and scented items (e.g., sunscreen, soap, toiletries, gum, soda, beer, empty coolers and recyclable containers) should be within arm’s reach at all times, or else properly stored in a bearproof storage locker and never left visible in your vehicle. When camping, treat the bearproof storage locker at your campsite like a refrigerator: always keep the door closed. For more tips on bear safety, click here.


Have more tips for visiting Kings Canyon National Park or neighboring Sequoia National Park? Let us know by posting a comment below. Thanks!


Related posts:
Insta-guide to Rocky Mountain National Park
Free Online Mini-Guides to Offbeat National Parks
Catching the Firefall in Yosemite Valley


Photo credits: Kings Canyon National Park (Sara J. Benson), Sequoia National Forest (Michael Connolly, Jr.)

Hawaii’s National Parks Go Social: News for Hikers

It used to be that the best way to find out whether or not the pools at Oheo Gulch in Haleakala National Park were open for swimming was to call the Kipahulu visitor center and cross your fingers that someone would pick up the phone. Now all you have to do is follow @HaleakalaNPS on Twitter. The park tweets about stream closures to save you the disappointment of driving all the way down past Hana, only to be told it’s unsafe to swim today due to the possible danger of flash floods. (Of course, you can still hike the Pipiwai Trail even when the Oheo Gulch area is closed to swimmers!)


Also on Twitter, @PacificNPS is the official tweeter for all of the National Parks of the Pacific Islands, covering Hawaii, Guam, Saipan and American Samoa. Their tweets give you a daily dose of Polynesian history, culture and science. One of today’s tweets linked to 60-second YouTube video introduction to the flora, fauna and landscapes of the Big Island’s Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (@HawaiiNPS), another beautifully diverse destination for island hikers and backpackers.


Got any favorite YouTube videos of hiking on Maui you’d like to share? Nominate your favorites by leaving the link in a comment below. Mahalo!


Related posts:
Wild Weather High on Hawaii’s Haleakala Volcano
Go Green, Local Style in Hawaii: Maui Edition
West Maui’s Waihee Valley Trail Closed Again


Photo credit: Haleakala National Park (Michael Connolly, Jr.)